For this collection Donatella Versace was inspired by the notion of an “urban warrior”. “She’s definitely not a young girl,” she said of her “urban jungle” SS16 collection, “she is a woman with problems, a woman with a busy life.”

“She’s fierce. She’s a fighter. She’s not fragile,” said Versace of her take on “utility”. She had set the show to an anthem written to commemorate International Women’s Day. This was feminist fashion, she insisted, and it was ferocious.

Models wore a military palette of khaki, olive and brown. Versace said she had been drawn to khaki “because it’s not flashy,” but she also created a traffic-stopping twist on camouflage with leopard-print swirls in hot orange, burgundy, brown, neon yellow, acid green and white.

Jackets were cut to gently hug the body, trousers were wider and skirts were longer (albeit with a high slit). Waist definition was key, as was the military jacket – be it a bomber, blazer or blouson. Khaki safari jackets with pockets and drawstrings worked neatly alongside wide-leg khaki trousers and a beautifully tailored tuxedo jacket with raw cut edges and a nipped in waist.


The point is: Versace has moved into sportswear-inspired pieces that signal a new mood of easy wearability – “because my woman is a traveller and she wants to look perfect wherever she is, all of the time,” she said.


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